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SS NILES BOTTLE STOPPERS
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Joyner Pendant Plate
This is an eccentric chuck that
allows you to make an
unlimited array of original pendants, earrings and
box lids. It was designed
by Richard Joyner of FL.
Machined to perfection in the USA
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PENDANT PLATE
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The basic package
includes $ 55.00 |
Shipping USA
5.60 |
●●You
can also order extra indexing plates. They are
$22.50
each or
2 for $40.
Many turners who do production work like to have a few indexing plates
to be able to
work on a pendant while another is in the vise while the double-faced
tape is setting up.
Also you can keep a small waste block for earrings on one plate and a
larger waste block
for turning pendants or box lids.
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Special PACKAGE OFFER |
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Shipping USA
5.60 |
Here are just a few examples of what you can do with this pendant plate.
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Very classy
pendant |
Alan Zenreich and his bride make lovely pendants. |
Exquisite yet
simple |
Several pendants done by Toney Robertson |
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A
bit of whimsy done by |
You
sure would |
Nice array by
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Two pendants by |
Doug Green in TX. |
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Another by Doug Green |
These are samples I
made to show a |
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How to make a pendant: |
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Attach a waste
block to the indexing faceplate. The size of the waste
block is not crucial. If turning lids for boxes, you might
use a 4" diameter piece, if turning pendants or earrings, you
can use a smaller piece.
●If
you turn the waste block the same size or a bit smaller diameter
than the pendant, it makes it easier to clean the sides of the
pendant.
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Next match the 0
on the two plates and attach them with either set of screws.
**the allen screws have smaller heads and don't interfere when the mandrel is threaded is a few of the outside holes. **the thumb screws are easier to hand loosen when using the indexing holes for your design. |
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Thread the mandrel in the middle hole to shape the waste block and be sure to have the top surface very smooth for the double-face tape to adhere. The washer keeps the mandrel threaded nice and snug without allowing it to tighten while turning your pendant. |
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Insert mandrel with pendant plate into headstock. I have a piece taped to the waste block in this picture. This waste block is not turned to the diameter of the pendant and you can see it would be easier if it were. |
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You will need a drawbar with the
bottle stopper mandrel. My mandrel takes a 1/4" 20 tpi all-thread rod. A piece of wood with a washer and nut tightened up to the hand wheel keeps the mandrel secure. If you are using the 1 1/8" diameter mandrel (fat one), you can put it in your jaw chuck and not need a drawbar. |
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There are a number of mandrels you
can use as long as it has a 3/8" 16 tpi thread. Some turners use regular lag bolts or carriage bolts, cut off the heads and put them in collet jaws in your chuck. |
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With the mandrel threaded into the middle hole turn a smooth finish on your pendant wood. |
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Now thread the mandrel in one
of the off-set holes to create a design.
**slow the rpm's down so the lathe doesn't vibrate. If you have a variable speed, start with the very slowest speed and gradually turn it up to where you are comfortable. I have the skew on its side on the tool rest and I like to do the same cut 2 or 3 times to get a nice clear and deep cut. |
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Move the tool to make a second cut. **Keep your hands on the outside of the tool rest at all times.
You will be cutting air half the
time so be sure to keep the tool sitting |
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When the wood comes back around, the tool does a small "jump" but keep it steady on the tool rest. After making 2 or 3 pendants, you won't even notice this. |
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Finished! |
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I use a small drill bit held
at an angle for the string. The design looks different
just by the placement of the hole. As you saw in the
gallery of pendants above, a lot of turners cut the hole using
the mandrel in one of the off-set holes which give it a nice
look.
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A useful tip: attach a piece of any wood,
approx. 2.5" dia. by 2-2.5" long to the faceplate.
Put the mandrel in #2 off-set hole and make a few cuts. Part off
an 1/8" piece (or whatever size
you are comfortable with), then move the mandrel to another hole and
make a few cuts. Part
this piece off. You will have samples of the cuts produced by each
hole.
Write the number of the hole you used for each disc on the back. You can
combine
off-sets and use the indexing to produce hundreds of variations.
Trust me, you will forget which combinations look good and which just
don't work! Have fun.
**To
see a video by Ed Davidson,
click here.
On Ed's
Video's page, scroll down and on the left you
will see
"Pendant I" and "Pendant II".
These are great videos for
the beginner.
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#2 Morse taper mandrel, black oxide
coated, with 3/8" x 16 tpi stud that has a "slit" in the threads making it a tap,
thus eliminating the need to tap separately. The back end is threaded and accepts a 1/4" x 20 tpi drawbar. We offer the 7/8", #2 Morse taper mandrel without the tapping slit to be used with the Joyner pendant plate. This mandrel will ensure the threads on the plate last longer.
$ 25.00
each
Made in the USA.....naturally! |
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TO ORDER:
T
o
use a debit
or credit card e-mail me at
ruthniles@gmail.com
Phone: 717-486-5232. I am in Eastern Standard Time. If you prefer PayPal, click here, log into your account and send the payment. My ID is ruthniles@gmail.com Please, send me a separate email saying you used PayPal and what you are ordering. PayPal is not always dependable about sending me notices of a payment and I don't want you thinking I'm ignoring you!
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make it out to either |
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© All rights reserved Ruth Niles 2012
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